Forget frills- Autumn should be one long comfort zone
I think I’ve got gourmet bulimia. Sounds nasty? For someone who loves everything to do with food, believe me, it’s a nightmare. This all started when my husband and I treated ourselves to a weekend at a Michelin-starred hotel and restaurant in France. Things couldn’t have been better—the hotel was lovely, the weather perfect, and the food? It made our mouths water just reading the menu. (Which in my case can be a lengthy business—I like to imagine the flavors and textures of every dish and make absolutely sure that the meal I choose is the one I really want. Neurotic? Perhaps.) Wanting to make the most of what was to be our first great gourmet experience, we went for the full monty—some ten courses of the finest produce France had to offer, from foie gras, to St. Jacques scallops, to caviar and a cheese board so big it needed two waiters to push the trolley, and to top it off, two dessert courses. Although it may sound like a lot, it was typical “posh food” in that portions were egg-cup size. Full, we were not. But for some reason, no sooner had we ordered coffee, did our stomachs rebel against being tickled and taunted by so many different tastes and textures. We were forced to make a quick exit out of the restaurant and, suffice to say, it wasn’t long before € 200 worth of food was heading down the Moselle. Not to be deterred, last month we headed for another Michelin-starred retreat, in Champagne. Again, it looked wonderful. But this time, I only got as far as the aperitif and amuse-gueule—at which point my stomach made it clear that it was anything but amused. If this, a tiny, pale lime green broccoli cream tartlet, was the taste of more to come, my body wasn’t having any of it, so we left the restaurant, without even having ordered. A few days and lots of comfort food later, I was fortunate enough to be invited to try some of Eckart Witzigmann’s three-star cooking, prior to his Palazzo show. I took one sip of the soup, and when that dizzy feeling returned, I knew that to go any further was asking for trouble. The rest of the sample menu, I presume, ended up in the bin. Give me a giant schnitzel, a Schweinshaxe or a monster steak, and I’ll polish it off, no questions asked. But somehow, these miniature teases from showy chefs just don’t agree with me. That’s why I’m convinced I was made for Munich. Ok, so the city’s not oblivious to foodie fashions. But, on the whole, Munich’s hedonistic attitude is fueled by the simple things in life. And what better time to revel in them than autumn? As the nights draw in and the skies go gray, there’s nothing better than a hearty meal to warm you up in mind and body. Try Munich chef Claudia Lahm’s recipe for wild boar goulash, spiked with a shot of dark chocolate, on page 28. Or visit one of the wine bars we’ve reviewed and seek solace in a spicy glass of autumnal red. If you’re still in need of a mood-lifter, you can’t beat a good belly laugh, so get yourself along to the new English Comedy Club, featured on page 32. If all else fails, and summer withdrawal symptoms really are getting you down, then why not get away from it all? Our travel feature is packed with tips on how to get the best deals from the so-called budget airlines and treat yourself to a break in the sun. Chill on the beach, discover the local culture in a new city or just spend a few days sampling some foreign cuisine. Unless, of course…